SULPHATES/SULPHATE
a salt of sulphuric acid. (sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate, myreth sulfate < least harmful (some sulfates are naturally derived from coconut); used as a foaming agent in shampoos, primary detergent.
- linked to hair loss
- not a known carcinogen, but when mixed with TEA, DEA or MEA (common shampoo/colour ingredients) can form carcinogenic substances (nirtosames) but can be neutralized with the addition of vitamins a&c. They get a lot of bad press but are not proven to be harmful.
PARABENS
esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Some parabens are found naturally in plant sources. A preservative used to extend a product’s shelf life; used for holding colour and conditioning agents; synthetic chemicals used as an antimicrobial preservative; used to prevent bacteria. *This ingredient has become increasingly contraversial.
- in those with allergies can cause dermatitis and rosacea
- causes corruption of natural hormonal processes
- may be linked to high rates of breast cancer
RESORCINOL
chemical compound from phenols, used in the production of dyes and UV absorbers; petroleum-based coal tar to make color last longer; preservative; oxidative chemical stabilizes color so hair hue doesn’t fade after washing.
- a known irritant
- recommended avoiding contact with skin and eyes
- neurotoxin: a toxin that damages or destroys nerve tissue
- listed as toxic to the skin and the immune system
FORMALDEHYDE
organic compound used as a preservative; high concentrations in perfumes and nail polish
- possible carcinogen, irritant
- may not break down once rinsed down the drain.. could harm or kill wildlife
PETRO-CHEMICALS
petroleum based chemical products derived from crude oil: not found as often in semi or demi colours. They are polymers found in gels and styling aids.
- may contain cancer-causing impurities
- ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil, and paraffin (derived from nonrenewable sources) form a barrier when applied to the skin that does not allow it to breathe and can clog pores
AMMONIA
compound of nitrogen and hydrogen. Used to aggressively open the cuticle allowing colour molecules to penetrate hair shaft.
- caustic and hazardous
- can irritate eyes and the respiratory system
- corrosive
PPD's (para-phenylenediamine)
a developing agent. Made from coal tar, it aids in holding pigmentation in colour. The darker the dye color, the higher the PPD concentration.
- the main culprit that causes allergic reactions in people
- linked to cancer, developmental toxicity, neurotoxicity, and allergies
- can cause scarring in high doses
TEA (triethanolamine), DEA (diethanolamine), or MEA (monnoethanolamine)
“amines” (ammonia compounds), used as foaming agents, synthetic stabilizers, and to adjust the pH of cosmetics; found in most shampoos, conditioners and styling aids
- can form harmful nitrosamines when they come in contact with nitrates
- can cause allergic reactions, eye irritation, and dryness of the hair and skin
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
a small organic alcohol commonly used as a skin conditioning agent. •associated with irritant and allergic contact dermatitis as well as contact urticaria in humans; these sensitization effects can be manifested at propylene glycol concentrations as low as 2%.
*Carcinogens are most often formed by the combination of two or more ingredients. Each ingredient in a product can be non-carcinogenic while still being carcinogenic as a whole.