Don't Let Allergies Stop You
At Citrus we may have something more green and less toxic that will work for you! We have searched the globe to find colour products that have reduced their allergy-causing and toxic ingredients as much as possible and allow them to still do what colour is designed to do.
Learn about some of the main allergy culprits and check out our trusted products. Talk to one of our specialists about your specific concerns.
Had Previous Reactions to Colour?
Allergies Progress and Get Worse Each Time
If you have ever experienced any reaction to colour no matter how mild (rash, redness, itchiness, sore spots, swelling, etc.) you MUST have a patch test done prior to any colour service. Allergies progress more strongly each time they occur, and it could be catastrophic. We will work with you to try and find a product that does not react. It's not always possible with more serious reactions, but we will do our best.
What is PPD?
One of the main causes of allergies to hair dye is a chemical known as para-phenylenediamine (or PPD). It is a dark dye used in almost every hair colour on the market, regardless of brand. The darker the colour, usually the higher the concentrations.
Facts about PPD and Hair Colour
More than two-thirds of permanent hair dyes currently contain PPD or related chemicals. To obtain a dramatic colour change or to cover grey, this ingredient is unavoidable even in more “green” hair colour products, although lower concentrations can still be effective. PPD is a preferred chemical due to its ability to withstand high temperatures and retain its stability. As well as hair colour, it is used for dyes for fabrics, fur and dark makeup amongst other things. PPD causes mild to severe allergic reactions in many people. According to CBC news, rates of allergy to hair dye have jumped in several countries as more and people colour their hair. A recent survey in London found the frequency of positive reactions to PPD in patch tests doubled over six years to 7.1 per cent of adults who developed contact dermatitis after exposure. Due to conflicting studies done which have neither proven or disproven the toxicity of PPD, the Environmental Protection Agency has not classified it as a carcinogen. Therefore, no warnings of toxicity have been printed on boxes of hair dye.
PPD Free?
PTD (para-toluenediamine and its salts) is a widely used alternative to PPD in permanent hair colour formulations. Because it is chemically related and capable of delivering long-lasting, permanent results, it often appears in products marketed as “PPD-free.” However, PTD is not automatically a safer option for individuals allergic to PPD, as cross-reactivity is common and many people sensitive to PPD may also react to PTD. That said, they are distinct chemical compounds, and in some cases a person allergic to PPD may be able to tolerate PTD, though patch testing and professional guidance are strongly recommended.
PPD and PTD Explained
Permanent hair colour works through a chemical reaction that happens inside the hair. To make this reaction work, the formula needs a key ingredient like PPD or PTD. These small, colorless chemicals can get inside the hair and react with the developer to create bigger, colored molecules that stay trapped inside the hair, which is why the colour is permanent. They also help cover grey hair well because they make strong, natural-looking pigment. Without one of these ingredients, the reaction that makes the colour last cannot happen properly, which is why most permanent hair colours use either PPD or PTD…to enable it to cover and give it longevity.
Black Henna-The Gateway to PPD Allergies?
One of the most dangerous applications of PPD is when it is added to henna, a natural dye. When added to henna, the concentration of PPD is often much higher than what is approved for use in hair dyes, resulting in a minor to major allergic reaction.
About Black Henna
When used for temporary tattoos, henna laced with PPD is known as “Black Henna.” Although this is not an approved use for PPD in North America, some tattoo artists will illegally add the chemical to henna for darker temporary tattoos that dry faster than pure henna tattoos. Because the dye is applied while the PPD is in its oxidation process, its potential as an allergen is increased. Black Henna tattoos often result in a skin reaction similar to a chemical burn, which in turn results in a scar where the skin was tattooed.
Once a person who has been exposed to PPD in black henna has an allergic reaction, they may suffer a lifelong sensitivity to the chemical. They will have future allergic reactions to hair colour and other things such as sunscreen, cosmetics and dark-coloured fabrics.
Avoid black henna always! There is no such thing as natural black henna as the only way to create it is by using PPD, so if you ever encounter it steer clear.